Sunday, November 4, 2007

Standard Protocol.

I took another day off work this week and went to one of Malawi’s national parks.
My boss was driving to the southern region to a city called Liwonde, home of one of Malawi’s best park for viewing large game. I decided that it was an excellent opportunity for me to further my cultural education on Malawi – so hitched a ride.

Liwonde National Park is home to may animals and birds. They have two lodges inside the park that offer excellent accommodation as well as safari services.
I stayed at the smaller, less expensive one.
After driving four hours from Lilongwe and arriving late at night, we finally found the lodge and the drunken owner came out to greet us. A sarcastic and bitter British ex-pat, Darren the owner explained that the lodge was low key and informal. We could drink whatever we like and simply add it to our tab in the ledger. There was no electricity, and at night the sky was lit with thousands of stars. We slept in a rustic dorm house with a thatched roof. Since we were the only visitors in tat building it was nice and quiet. We slept soundly and safely while our guard stayed watch with his rifle, ready to fend off any animals that came to eat us.
Jenika and I rose early (4:30) to go on an early morning safari. Apparently early morning and late afternoon are the best times to see large game out and about. We met a group of Dutch travelers who were in our car and we set out with an excellent guide around 5:15. I was of course wearing all of my safari gear. And I maintain in the face of continuous ridicule – that these are the most comfortable, serviceable, and flattering clothes I have ever owned!
We saw many animals: a herd of water buffalo, bushbucks, warthogs, baboons, monkeys, waterback antelope, and something like a deer – but I cannot remember its name.
The highlight of the ride was without a doubt our interaction with a male elephant. After seeing a beautiful herd of elephants cross the road (they actually do cross single-file holding onto each others tails), we continued driving to suddenly face a male elephant standing in the middle of the road.
Our car stopped less than 250 metres away from the male. He started to trumpet his horn and stomp his feet. Needless to say, everyone in the car was getting a little anxious. Appearing completely calm, our guide informed the driver to rev the engine. This can only be what I assume is the standard protocol for encountering angry male elephants. The engine sounded like a growl from another animal. We continued this for almost ten minutes- the elephant only finally showing signs of backing down.
A scary and very real encounter with an animal I have previously only known from Disney movies.
Let’s just say this elephant was a little different from Dumbo.

After, we went on a canoe safari to look at Hippos. I was still a little shaken up from our morning encounter and opted to stay far back from these other large and scary animals.
Overall: my first safari was wonderful. The natural beauty and untamed surroundings are incredible. But I am not sure if it compares to Northern Ontario…………man I miss those trees.

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